Prices listed are pretty accurate and broken down in great detail, but there are some motorcycles that can cost more, or cost less than the listed pricing. Depending on condition or accessories installed etc. Any aftermarket exhaust systems blocking axle removal is a prime example, another great example- rusted / corroded in place fasteners, another example- aftermarket wiring with crimp connectors instead of plug in connectors like OE, especially things like underglo lighting where parts are affixed to bodywork that need to removed or wire routing is in the way of parts removal
I am going to put this in right near the top!!!
All motorcycles more than 20 years old and/or coming in with an estimated cost of repair to exceed $1500 will be required to pay a deposit at drop off which is subject to change based on the motorcycle and its needs.
ie 1…. Some 1980’s bike that has been sitting for years and I say it will likely be $2500-$3000 to make it safe and reliable, you will be putting forward $2000 of that up front with drop off
ie 2… Some blown up engine bike where the parts could easily exceed $2000 and labor surely will exceed that, you will be putting forward a $3000 deposit right up front.
ie 3…. Some complete suspension job with all new components, you will be putting forward $1500 deposit right up front
Although great care is taken to not scratch anything, it is possible your wheel gets a mark from the tire machine (Despite all plastic shoes on the machine). or …. if you have some stubborn corroded, rusted or otherwise stuck part that needs to be extracted to do the work, yep mars or scratches could happen. Hell, even the clip on wheel weights leave marks on the wheels. as do the stick-on ones in the form of glue residue, you can and should clean your own wheels! It would be hugely beneficial to clean your wheels and bike before bringing it in for service. There is a much lower chance of any scratches or marks happening to a clean motorcycle than a dirty motorcycle — and cleanliness will greatly appreciated too!
I take great care to make sure no new scratches or marks appear, but it can happen, although very rare. I just want you fully aware.
OE Service Tune
This is generally the 7,500 / 14,000 / 16,000 / 28,000 mile OEM recommended service, valve adjustment, and much more!
(see the list below the pricing guide)
Labor Costs
| There are exceptions and other considerations – this is approximate but typical labor pricing only! Parts can range from $80 to over $250 depending on the needs and the motorcycle! | |
| Most motorcycles are typically @ (some are more, some are less… examples listed below) | $550 |
| V-star 1300, C50 Blvd, 09^ ZX6R, ZX14, RC51, VFR800 w/o v-tech, CB919, S1000RR, FZ/MT07-09, R7 @ | $635 |
| VTX1800 + every other motorcycle sans proper fuel shut off, 2011^ ZX10R, C14, CBR900/929/954/1000 @ | $695 |
| Working around time-adding aftermarket parts (e.g. Concours 1400 with Canyon Cages) – regardless of which tune up service | + $50 + |
| Royal star Venture, ST1100/1300, 09^ R1, Roadliner 1600/1700/1800/1900, 02^ GL1800 @ | $850 |
| ST1100 with new belt installed or with belt adjusted, H2, H2 SXSE, 2007 and 2010 & older ZX10R @ | $950 |
| K1600’s (shim is the bucket) @ | $1,000 |
| Honda V-tech engines (ie VFR800 w/v-tech) | $1,800 |
| Indian Scout (shim is the bucket with frame move and radiator fill/bleed is ridiculously time consuming) | $2,500 |
| Some less expensive examples; | |
| SV650, Ninja250/300/400/650, R3, Triumph speed triple, many hydraulic lifter bikes, | $450-$475 |
| Single cylinder 4 stroke dirt bikes (excludes KLR650) | $200 |
| KLR650 | $250 |
| I do offer a minimum service tune- which is only the valve adjustment and throttle body/carb sync… it saves approximately ?one hour? on many models | – ~ $100 |
Here is a list of approximately what all is done – the list varies slightly between models. This service is the most complete care you can get anywhere (sans my major service tune). I do the entire list in the service manual and much more.
- Valve adjustment: I have over 13,000 OEM shims on hand to make the adjustments all perfect. No “close-enough” attitude. This is the same professional precision I bring to every valve adjustment I do. Each valve will be adjusted to within .0005″ of what clearance is desired, generally dead center in the allowable range specified by the manufacturer.
- Inspect: Cam lobes, cam chain, cam sprockets and cam chain tensioner, always cleaning the tensioner for close inspection, and numerous tensioners get the shaft polished.
- Throttle body or carburetor synchronization are adjusted to as close as perfect as I can get them. Often this means removing and cleaning the ilde air screws adjuster screws on FI motorcycles.
- Steering head bearings are adjusted if loose.
- Pivot bushings on the levers are disassembled and cleaned then lubricated
- All the cables; throttle, clutch, choke, speedometer and exhaust servo, if so equipped, are pressure lubed and adjusted.
- Sensors are electronically checked and adjusted whenever needed/possible. (there are about 10 on modern bikes)
- TPS (throttle position sensor) adjusted.
- Exhaust valve, if so equipped, is adjusted and these cables are power lubed as well.
- Counter balancer(s) adjusted when applicable.
- Coolant is changed
- Brake/clutch fluids are flushed completely. Motul RBF600 is the go to fluid in 95% of the motorcycles I see
- The charging system output is inspected and documented.
- Oil and filter are changed.
- Spark plugs are changed with properly gapped plugs.
- Air filter is cleaned/replaced as needed.
- Battery is tested. Non-sealed batteries may be topped off with distilled water.
- Whichever final drive system your bike has, it is taken care of. Chain is adjusted and lubed or the final drive fluid is changed. The drive belt is inspected and adjusted/replaced if so warranted.
- Oil pressure and fuel pressure/output is checked when possible.
- All the lights, horn etc. are all checked as well, repaired/replaced as needed.
- Fuel filter cleaned or replaced when applicable, if the in tank fuel pump filter is changed- it is an additional charge (included in major service tune)
- You of course get a whole slew of pictures of the work as well (dozens). The list is long and varies slightly between different bikes but it is very extensive, not to mention time consuming. On average this takes about 7-10 hours to do one bike.
- Fuel injectors; these can be flow tested and cleaned for approximately $180 additional to any tune up cost. Unfortunately this takes about 5-7 day turn around time as I send these out to an injector specialist shop in Florida. (pro flow injection technologies is my preferred go to)
- While I can use a cheaper “injector cleaner kit” which basically sprays some aerosol cleaner through the injector, I have found this method to be woefully inadequate at actually cleaning the injectors and does nothing at all for balancing them so they are all the same flow rate and spray pattern. and without the same flow rate and spray pattern your engine will not perform at its best.
- On carbureted bikes, you can typically add in a full carburetor cleaning to any tune up for $100 off the listed carburetor cleaning price below. (in the carburetor cleaning section)– in some cases this is absolutely necessary.
Major Service Tune
This is highly recommended for new purchases of used motorcycles and any motorcycle with more than 25,000 miles and / or 10 years old
If you look in the service manual and do everything listed regardless of mileage recommendation plus more, then you have an idea of how thorough this service is. But it really is even more than all that. Go to the pictures page and you can view just how extensive this service really is. At some point the motorcycle is basically a frame and engine ~ see list below~
Major Tune Labor Costs
| There are exceptions and other considerations – this is approximate labor pricing only! Parts can range from $100 to well over $300 depending on the needs and the motorcycle! | |
| Most motorcycles are typically @ (some are more, some are less… examples listed below) | $1,275 |
| RoyalStar venture/tour deluxe, Venture Royal, VTX1800 and every other motorcycle without a proper fuel shut off, Concours 1400, pre 09 R1, RC51, FJR1300, VStar 1300, GL1500, CBR600/900/919/929/954/1000RR, Stratoliner, M109, 03^ ZX6R, S1000RR, FZ/MT 07/09, R7 | $1,550 |
| ST1100/1300, GL1000/1100/1200/1800, 09^ R1, H2, H2 SXSE, 2007 and older ZX10R, many Indians and many Victory | $1,750 |
| K1600 (all), ST1100 with new belt install @ | $1,900 |
| VFR800 with V-tech @ | $2,700 |
| Indian Scout @ | $3,600 |
| Some motorcycles are are easier/faster, thus are less expensive. Examples: | |
| Ninja 250/300/400/650, R3, CBR250/300RR, older; Shadow, Nighthawk & hydraulic lifter engines, ZX-11, VN1500 @ | $1,000 |
| KZ 305/400/440, Ninja 250R/300/400/500R, CBR250R/300/500, Nighthawk/CB 250/450, SV650 @ | $1,000 |
| The Hydraulic lifter GL1200 | $1,000 |
| The hydraulic lifter Honda CB’s and many other screw type and hydraulic lifter type motorcycles @ | $950 |
| This is on a case by case basis until I do them and write them in the book…. ie, unlisted motorcycles are unknown $ |
Here is a list of approximately what all is done – the list varies slightly between models. This service is the most complete care you can get anywhere by anyone at any price. I do the entire list in the service manual and so much more. Motorcycles routinely depart better than they departed the factory brand new!
- Valve adjustment: I have over 13,000 OEM shims on hand to make the adjustments all perfect. No “close-enough” attitude. This is the same professional precision I bring to every valve adjustment I do. Each valve will be adjusted to within .0005″ of what clearance is desired, generally dead center in the allowable range specified by the manufacturer.
- Inspect: Cam lobes, cam chain, cam sprockets and cam chain tensioner, always cleaning the tensioner for close inspection, and numerous tensioners get the shaft polished.
- Throttle body or carburetor synchronization are adjusted to as close as perfect as I can get them. often this means removing and cleaning the idle air screws adjuster screws on FI bikes
- Idle fuel mixture is adjusted whenever possible. on carbs, I will drill the safety cap to access the adjuster if needed…
- Suspension linkages are disassembled, cleaned, inspected and lubed.
- Swing arm is removed and the bearings are cleaned and lubed as is the swing arm pivot bolt.
- Steering head bearings removed, (lower bearing is left on the triple stem, unless replacing the bearings) cleaned, properly lubed with waterproof grease and adjusted- some bikes is it more prudent to just replace with good tapered roller bearings.
- Fork oil is changed, including the damper rod/cartridge, which means complete disassembly and cleaning, new seals and often new bushings will be installed.
- All pivot bushings including the shifter pedal, rear brake pedal, brake and clutch lever pivot pins and bushings, shifter linkage arm and rear brake arm are removed cleaned and properly lubed.
- Foot pegs are removed, cleaned and pins lubed.
- All the cables; throttle, clutch, choke, speedometer and exhaust servo, if so equipped, are pressure lubed and adjusted.
- Brake pad pins are removed, cleaned and lubed. Albeit very lightly. The brake pistons are also cleaned as are the sealed slider pins on such calipers
- Sensors are electronically checked and adjusted whenever needed/possible. (there are about 10 on modern bikes)
- TPS (throttle position sensor) adjusted.
- Exhaust valve, if so equipped, is adjusted and these cables are power lubed as well.
- Counter balancer(s) adjusted when applicable.
- Wheels are removed for proper checking and lubricating of all the wheel bearings. Some have metal shields and are not accessible, but the vast majority are rubber shielded and serviceable.
- Axles are cleaned and lubed.
- Brake/clutch fluids are flushed completely. Brake caliper and axle pinch bolts are all anti seized and properly torqued as applicable.
- Electrical connectors are checked, cleaned and protected. The charging system connections are cleaned and output is also inspected.
- Oil and filter are changed. (GL1800DCT has 2 oil filters)
- Cooling system is flushed and new coolant/anti-freeze is installed
- Spark plugs are changed with properly gapped plugs.
- Air filter is cleaned/replaced as needed.
- Battery is removed and serviced. Non-sealed batteries may be topped off with distilled water.
- Whichever final drive system your bike has, it is taken care of. Chain is cleaned, adjusted and lubed or the final drive fluid is changed. The splines on shaft drive bikes are cleaned and lubed. The drive belt is inspected and adjusted/replaced if so warranted.
- Oil pressure and fuel pressure/output is checked when possible.
- All the lights, horn etc. are all checked as well, repaired/replaced as needed.
- Fuel filter cleaned or replaced when applicable, including the in tank fuel pump screen when applicable
- You of course get a whole slew of pictures of the work as well (dozens). The list is long and varies slightly between different motorcycles but it is very extensive, not to mention time consuming. At some point during this service your motorcycle will basically be a frame and an engine- it is that comprehensive of service. On average this takes about 15-20 hours to do one motorcycle.
- Fuel injectors; these can be flow tested and cleaned for approximately $200 additional to any tune up cost. Unfortunately this takes about 5-7 day turn around time as I send these out to an injector specialist shop in Florida. (pro flow injection technologies is my preferred go to)…an updated service addition here, I did purchase an ultra sonic fuel injector cleaner and will remove and run your injectors through this as included in the major service tune….The extra money spent for pro flow to do them is still absolutely worth is as they can balance them and I can not, but if you bike sits a lot this could be a good choice to clean off the varnish
- While I can use a cheaper “injector cleaner kit” which basically sprays some aerosol cleaner through the injector, I have found this method to be woefully inadequate at actually cleaning the injectors and does nothing at all for balancing them so they are all the same flow rate and spray pattern. and without the same flow rate and spray pattern your engine will not perform at its best.
- On carbureted bikes, you can typically add in a full carburetor cleaning to any tune up for $100-$150 off the listed carburetor cleaning price below. (in the carburetor cleaning section)– in some cases this is absolutely necessary.
This is an excellent choice for the first time service, the 8+ year old bike that hasn’t seen its service yet. Or that “used” bike that you aren’t quite sure what has truly been serviced. This is an intensive, no holds barred service. Everything on the bike that is adjustable or lubricatable is done. Which every bike will need sooner or later. If you go to the pictures page and view them you will see numerous bikes with dry steering head bearings, corroded shifter linkages, rusty pivot bushings, worn suspension linkages etc. You will not regret “upgrading” to the most extensive service you can find. Not only will your ride quality and enjoyment of motorcycling be enough improved to make you wonder why you waited so long to do this, but everything on the motorcycle will work better and last longer. Your motorcycle will have never worked better. This ultra complete service would not need to be repeated for atleast 10 years (grease does have a lifespan)
Fork Seals & Suspension
I will only do both fork legs at the same time; I will not do just one side. prices shown are for the pair of them.
This job includes oil seals, dust seals, fork oil and bushings…….. a word about PARTS – I always use OEM hard parts (seals and bushings) and Maxima fork oil….. Parts are extra…… pretty typical to be $75 to $150 in the above parts for most bikes. Bushings are highly recommended on all street motorcycles with more than 20,000 miles on them and all dirt bikes and racebikes with pretty much every set of seals.
On-the-bike Fork Service Labor Costs
| Many common bikes, typical labor cost @ | $250 |
| Some bikes are harder and do take longer, thus are more expensive. Examples: VTX1800 etc | $300 |
| Victory Vision / Cross Country, Royal Star Venture, PC800 & several dirt bikes etc @ | $425 |
| Electronic adjustable forks (depends how hard it is to work around the wires, the hidden part vary) @ | $400-$500 |
| Honda Goldwing GL1100/1200/1500/1800 @ | $600 |
Off the bike pricing – generally this runs $125 – $150 for the pair…. Not many would cost more (well, all GL1000-1800, as will all electronic forks – all these will cost more… as will ones with rusty crusty retainers or dirty, oil-soaked arrivals), a few may cost less………… (many of the traditional damper rod forks will be approx. $100).
Fork oil change takes nearly the same amount of time as fork seal replacement, so prices are very similar (save perhaps $25 labor at most).
Suspension tuning, etc………..
New components (i.e. Traxxion Axxion valves or Omni springs, Penske Shocks, Racetech springs and gold valves, Ohlins shock, etc.) are all available.
Shock rebuilds available….. on all aftermarket shocks and some OEM shocks (I am shipping these to Traxxion and not doing them in house anymore but I can still change springs in house).
If I have to clean up all the rotor buttons and all the drilled holes in the rotors because they are filled with oil, brake dust, and road grime to get your brake pads to actually bed in and function at 100%, expect to get charged for that…….. It takes about an hour to clean that all up thoroughly. $100 is the current rate to do this! and if they are bad the pads need replacing too.
Other Fork / Suspension Service Labor Costs
| AK20 install in Big Piston Forks – (the shoe has to come off the inner tube) this would include the typical fork seals, oil, bushings replacement all being changed at the same time – but does not include any parts. Parts on this job run about $1350 currently (spring 2023) | $450 |
| Non Big Piston Forks for AK20 install, plus parts (again parts currently run about $1350) | $350 |
| Re-valving rebound and compression damping valves is in the $500 range for most cartridge forks – it requires the cartridge to come apart and then the valves to come off and out. Again plus whatever costs for parts — it has been my experience you are best to skip this and simply go straight to AK20’s for a much better use and result for your money. 10x the result for less than 2x the cost. | $500 |
| Adding new fork springs at this time, sized to your weight and riding style- specifically made for you or replacing bushings (highly recommended, especially if over 20,000 miles, or if you are outside the “desired” weight set up for the oe springs) only add the cost of those parts. There are no additional labor changes– and even if you are lower miles, you may want to get a good set of springs that are the correct spring rate for you! your weight, your riding style, your road conditions …….. some general, 2023 pricing below……… | |
| Set of springs (traxxion dynamics typically) | ~$130 |
| Set of bushings | ~$50 |
| Fork oil seal sets (some manufacturers include oil and dust seals together in one set) | ~$30-50 |
| Dust seal sets | ~$20-40 |
| Fork oil is typically (Maxima blue label full synthetic) | ~$15-$20 |
| AK20’s (AK25’s for the damper rod bikes are easier to install and run ~ $475 with the proper spring set) | ~$1100-$1300 |
| Penske double clicker shock (piggyback reservoir instead of remote reservoir adds about $200) | ~$1075 |
| Penske triple clickers (piggyback reservoir instead of remote reservoir adds about $200) | ~$1350 |
Carburetor Cleaning / Jetting
CARBURETOR CLEANING–again this varies by bike, but expect anything more than 7 years old to need all new o-rings at a minimum.
Those 15+ year old bikes will be getting complete “rebuild kits”, which can run from $20-$60 per carburetor, OEM only !!!– Honda does offer complete kits, the other manufacturers it is buy all the individual pieces needed.
I completely disassemble the carburetor assemblies and all the brass parts go into a chemical soaker, the aluminum bodies and plastic parts go into an ultrasonic water based solution for cleaning, and then everything is finally washed clean and blown out with compressed air. Then once truly clean, all of the parts are fully inspected before assembly. Float heights set, new o-rings installed.
Once reassembled and re-installed on the bike, there are a couple adjustments made i.e. idle mixture and carburetor synchronization, TPS if so equipped, cables are power lubed and adjusted as well.
Carburetor Cleaning / Jetting Labor Costs
| There are exceptions and other considerations – this is approximate labor pricing only! Parts can range from $20-$60 per carburetor depending on the needs and the bike! | |
| For many 2 cylinder bikes out there and some of the single cylinder dirt bikes this can be as low as @ | $300 |
| Ninja 250 and some of the V-twin’s @ | $345 |
| Most inline 4 cylinder bikes @ | $450 |
| 4 cylinder Goldwing’s and ST1100’s @ | $550 |
| 6 cylinder Goldwing’s, Valkyrie’s, Venture’s, and V-four bikes @ | $600 |
This is usually a 3-5 day deal, but if parts need to be ordered it will likely take longer. I will look over the rest of the bike as well and make any other recommendations it needs.
Vacuum hose replacement on a GL1500 runs over (as of 2017 pricing) $100 in parts -there are dozens of them- and an extra $195 in labor to install them all.
This would be a good time to do some jetting, as most motorcycles performance and fun factor is greatly improved by some jetting changes and since the carburetors will already be off and fully disassembled, these changes won’t cost nearly as much as they would if it was a stand alone jetting install.
An update on this…. I have run into at least 6 motorcycles where parts are listed as available from the manufacturer but they took close to or over a month to receive. All of these bikes were 80’s/90’s vintage, except one 2002 Suzuki Bandit1200S and now a Valkyrie 1500 as well– just as heads up for restoring that era of bike, and parts pricing since the scamdemic have about doubled on many parts, sadly.
Rusty fuel tanks!!! The chemicals, the epoxy liner and labor is always going to run in excess of $650, always!!! – The last 3 I have done ended up @ $750
Tire Changes
Car tire previously installed – I double the disposal fee and add $15 to labor. I will not install car tires on motorcycle wheels!
Carry in tires purchased elsewhere, add $10 per tire to labor. You should check with me first as often I am priced lower than anyone on most of the tires! This is a double save for you in those cases.
IF YOU CHOOSE TO LEAVE YOUR OLD TIRES HERE, THERE WILL BE A $4.50 PER TIRE CHARGE. That is simply my cost for disposal & recycling.
Tire Change Labor Costs
| There are exceptions and other considerations – this is generally labor pricing, only! | |
| OFF THE BIKE (i.e. “loose wheels”) – labor for mounting and balancing carry-in wheels for *many* bikes | |
| Fronts (each) @ | $40 |
| Rears (each) @ | $50 |
| Set (front and rear pair, done at same time) @ | $65 |
| Cleaning of wheels is not included and would be extra, ex… GL1800 rear wheels packed with dust and brake pad materials in them!… and the ones with chain lube all over the rim! or corrosion inside the rim | |
| ON THE BIKE – labor for removing wheels, mounting and balancing tires on *many* bikes, and reinstalling wheels | |
| Fronts (each) @ | $60 |
| Rears (each) @ | $70 |
| Set (front and rear pair, done at same time) @ | $100 |
| Some “on-the-bike” bikes/situations are harder and do take longer, thus are more expensive. Examples: | |
| Carbon fiber wheels (i.e. some S1000RR, etc.) @ | fronts: $80 rears: $80 set: $150 |
| Goldwing 1100/1200/1500 @ | fronts: $80 rears: $150 set: $220 loose: $80 |
| Goldwing 1800 @ (please power wash out your rear wheel ‘spokes’ and hub !!! | fronts: $80 rears: $80 set: $150 loose: $80 |
| ST1100/1300 @ | fronts: $60 rears: $100 set: $145 |
| VTX1800, VTX1300, V-Star1300/1100/650 etc… @ | fronts: $65 rears: $145 set: $200 |
| VN1500(Vulcan) @ | fronts: $60 rears: $110 set: $155 |
| VN1500 (Nomad with hard bags and backrest- hidden security bolts), Valkyrie @ | fronts: $65 rears: $150 set: $200 |
| VN1500 (Drifter) (need tubes) @ | fronts: $75 rears: $125 set: $185 |
| Stratoliner/Roadstar/Royalstar @ | fronts: $60 rears: $110 set: $155 w/tubes: +$25 |
| Intruder/Boulevard/C50 @ | fronts: $65 rears: $125 set: $175 |
| Victory @ | fronts: $65 rears: $145 set: $195 |
| Harley Davidson (baggers and tube type wheels) @ | fronts: $90 rears: $140 set: $220 loose: $135 |
| Harley Davidson (non baggers and no tubes) @ | fronts: $70 rears: $110 set: $170 loose: $95 |
| Harley Davidson Street XG750 @ | fronts: $60 rears: $70 set: $100 |
| VTR250/PC800 @ | front: $90 rear: $70 set: $150 |
| Concours 1000, BMW K1250, K1600 @ | front: $60 rear: $85 set: $125 |
| Shadow 750 with tubes and exhaust removal required @ | fronts: $60 rears: $140 set: $180 |
| Any size 210/x/x or wider @ (fatter than 210/x/x adds $25 per 10mm width)… ie 240/40-18 is $225 | rears: $150 |
| XS650 and many older yamaha tube type @ | front: $75 rear: $110 set: $165 |
| Most cruiser style motorcycles not listed above @ | fronts: $65 rears: $95 set: $150 |
| Tubliss tire system to install new @ | loose: $100 on bike: $160 |
| Tubliss tire system already installed @ | +$35/set |
| Dirt Bike with 1 rim lock @ | loose: $100 on bike: $160 |
| Dirt Bike with 2 rim locks @ | loose: $125 on bike: $185 |
| Shinko, Kenda or continental tires going on??? You should make better life choices, but if you insist @ | add $10/tire |
| TPMS batteries installed with tire change, on bikes the CR2032HR/2032 batteries can be changed @ | $85 / pair parts and labor |
Slime inside the wheel, liquid balance or any of that garbage- $100 minimum added fee to clean! Those products are horrible and make a huge mess!
Chain and Sprockets
I offer and stock EK chains and Supersprox steel sprockets in most common sizes at approx. $180-$220 for most motorcycles.
Chain and Sprockets Labor Costs
| There are exceptions and other considerations – this is approximate labor pricing only! | |
| Chain and sprocket installation @ | $100 |
Steering Head Bearings
I offer stand-alone steering head bearing installation and adjustments services but the cost varies greatly from motorcycle to motorcycle as some are about 30 minutes for an adjustment while others take more than 2 hours.
Adjustments
Most sportbikes sans the top mounted oe damper models are about 45 minutes for a proper adjustment. The ones with the top mounted damper often add 15-30 minutes.
Installation
Installation time takes around 90 minutes on many of the standard models. Some of the cruisers and touring motorcycles take upwards of 2.5-3 hours and a typical GL1800 can take 6 hours 😡
Parts
Aftermarket tapered rollers are usually available and highly recommended they are often priced $40-$50 for the set.
Wheel Bearings
I offer stand-alone wheel bearing installation but the cost can vary greatly from motorcycle to motorcycle due to the design.
Notes
Most often this is about a $50 deal on the vast majority of wheels (with the wheel off of the motorcycle already).
There are a few rims that are double bearing, like some of the Gold Wings. They require a blind hole puller tool which is a solid steel tool, and it absolutely will leave small marks on the surface it pushes against to remove the bearings. It is unavoidable. Care is taken to keep the mars to a minimum but sometimes these bearings are seized in and require extraordinary force to remove – thus the mars will be bigger.
Motorcycles with the double stacked bearings run $160 for the loose front wheel.
Disc guarded motorcycles that require those protective/decorative covers removed to access the wheel bearings, ie; the Royal Star Venture, will run $130 for the loose front wheel.
Old school BMW (like the R75) and some old school HD with the tapered roller bearings – to remove, clean and repack is the same cost as replacement @ $180 for a loose set of wheels (I do need all spacers and the axle to accompany the wheel!).
Miscellaneous Service Pricing
Oil and Filter Change
| There are some exceptions and other considerations – this is approximate labor pricing only! | |
| Most motorcycles (when in for another service that doesn’t include an oil/filter change) @ | $40 |
| Most motorcycles getting oil/filter changed as a stand alone service @ | $60 |
| Harley Davidson “3 hole” oil and filter change @ | $100 |
| GL1800DCT with its two oil filters and 3 drain plugs @ | $75 |
| All of the dry sump motorcycles. i.e. XV1700/1800/1900 @ | $75 |
| The V-star that requires exhaust removal to access the oil filter @ | $125 |
Brake and Clutch Fluid Flush
| There are some exceptions and other considerations – this is approximate labor pricing only! | |
| Includes cleaning and lubing the lever pivots, both front and rear brake and the hydraulic clutch @ | $125 |
| on motorcycles with no hydraulic clutch or a mechanical rear brake @ | $75 |
Spring/Fall Prep Package
| There are exceptions and other considerations – this is approximate parts AND labor pricing! | |
| Includes both of the above (brake and clutch flush, lever lube + oil and filter change) as well as setting tire pressures, chain lube and adjustment, tread depth and age noted plus a thorough inspection of the motorcycle for any other needs or near-future needs @ | $250-$325 |
Air Filter Replacement
Most motorcycles can be done in under an hours time, a few motorcycles this is a 10 minute process – we’ll cover your situation during the appointment setup.
| Approximate labor pricing for some really time-consuming models… | |
| The current crop of GL1800 is the worst @ | $300 |
| Some other models like the C14, FJR, H2, etc. @ | $100 |
Crash Repair Estimates
| This is a $100 minimum charge (commonly reimbursed by insurance) to write up a comprehensive crash repair estimate never takes less than 1 hour, rarely takes more than 2 hours @ | $100-$200 |
Winter Storage + Spring Prep
Make room in your garage this winter and set yourself up for a great riding season next year! Service includes: heated, indoor storage, removal and servicing the battery, changing oil/filter, flushing brake and clutch fluid, setting the tire pressures come spring. Note: parts are extra. I suggest you bring a cover. This service has to be booked and paid for in advance.
| Most standards and sportbikes @ | $300 |
| Most touring and full dressers @ | $350 |